Seat arosa poorly again
- Thread starter Miss24
- Start date
http://engine-codes.com/p1444.html
Stumbled on this after a google. Sounds like evap problems. There will be a pipe running from the top of the fuel tank to the engine bay into your carbon filter. If this is blocked, that could give it.
Could always bypass the canister etc and put a resistor across it. Did it on mine a while ago
Stumbled on this after a google. Sounds like evap problems. There will be a pipe running from the top of the fuel tank to the engine bay into your carbon filter. If this is blocked, that could give it.
Could always bypass the canister etc and put a resistor across it. Did it on mine a while ago
Top left corner, behind the reservoir with the green cap is a canister, called the carbon filter. Its to do with emissions control in places like the U.S and is a standard across all VAG engines. Its something around there, more than likely a clamped pipe that will be giving you that code. Check the pipes as much as you can, and if all else fails, rip dat *cough* stuff out and fit a 330 ohm 10w resistor (put that into eBay) across the terminals to stop the fault code
The Ross-Tech wiki, where I usually find fault codes, doesn't have P1444, only P1443, which is the EGR position sensor. More research under way.
OK, I've found: -
VAG OBD Error Code Details for P1444 - EGR Valve Position Sensor range/performance
and another list that gives:
P1444-17852-Exh. gas recirculation potentiometer -G212- ,implausible signal
Similar to P1443 except implausible signal rather than signal too low.
Miss24, it would help if you told us a bit more about the car, such as engine type and registration year. From looking at your posts I think you have a 51 plate 1.0 petrol car. That would make the engine most likely to be an AUC, 50 BHp petrol engine.
This Elsaweb page shows you how Seat would go about testing the EGR position sensor.
The position sensor is part of the valve assembly and there doesn't seem to be a way of replacing it on its own, so if it's proved to be faulty it will mean a new EGR valve assembly.
This page shows you a bit more about where to find the EGR valve.
OK, I've found: -
VAG OBD Error Code Details for P1444 - EGR Valve Position Sensor range/performance
and another list that gives:
P1444-17852-Exh. gas recirculation potentiometer -G212- ,implausible signal
Similar to P1443 except implausible signal rather than signal too low.
Miss24, it would help if you told us a bit more about the car, such as engine type and registration year. From looking at your posts I think you have a 51 plate 1.0 petrol car. That would make the engine most likely to be an AUC, 50 BHp petrol engine.
This Elsaweb page shows you how Seat would go about testing the EGR position sensor.
The position sensor is part of the valve assembly and there doesn't seem to be a way of replacing it on its own, so if it's proved to be faulty it will mean a new EGR valve assembly.
This page shows you a bit more about where to find the EGR valve.
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I've edited my previous post, to account for the fact that Ross-Tech doesn't list P1444.
It could be wiring, or a bad contact at the electrical connector. You could try the tests listed on the Elsa page to give you an idea of what might be wrong. It's certainly worth checking the connector is clean and making good contact.
It could be wiring, or a bad contact at the electrical connector. You could try the tests listed on the Elsa page to give you an idea of what might be wrong. It's certainly worth checking the connector is clean and making good contact.
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Could always pop in on my way back from work
Any problems with that? I know how you feel, but sometimes things just go. Nothing to say they will or won't, or when they will. Its a shame, but thats why you join a forum, so that when things do go wrong, you can fix them, or get help to fix them
I hate EGR with a passion. Its put there to reduce emissions, specifically NOx, by reducing the peak combustion temperature: but this reduces engine efficiency, increasing fuel consumption also increasing hydrocarbon emissions.
It's particularly vile in diesel engines (note the avatar ) where it causes choking of the inlet manifold with carbonised oil sludge and also is responsible for most of the smoke emitted by modern diesels: yes, the emission-control measures for NOx specified by California and so imposed on the whole world cause increased emissions of hydrocarbons and smoke particles, which California also regulates.
Water injection would be a much better way to control NOx, having the additional benefits of improving engine efficiency, but you'd have to remember to fill the water tank every so often, and the average Californian has trouble remembering which way is up.
The environmental studies that lead to legislation against NOx emissions from vehicles are deeply flawed, and there is a strong suspicion that the legislation is driven by oil companies who prefer engines inefficient and dislike diesels altogether.
It's possible your EGR valve has started to stick from deposits of carbon, so it might just need a clean, especially if you do mostly short journeys or relatively little open road motoring.
It's particularly vile in diesel engines (note the avatar
) where it causes choking of the inlet manifold with carbonised oil sludge and also is responsible for most of the smoke emitted by modern diesels: yes, the emission-control measures for NOx specified by California and so imposed on the whole world cause increased emissions of hydrocarbons and smoke particles, which California also regulates.Water injection would be a much better way to control NOx, having the additional benefits of improving engine efficiency, but you'd have to remember to fill the water tank every so often, and the average Californian has trouble remembering which way is up.
The environmental studies that lead to legislation against NOx emissions from vehicles are deeply flawed, and there is a strong suspicion that the legislation is driven by oil companies who prefer engines inefficient and dislike diesels altogether.
It's possible your EGR valve has started to stick from deposits of carbon, so it might just need a clean, especially if you do mostly short journeys or relatively little open road motoring.
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EGR reduces the peak combustion temperature during mid-level power demands, so your cylinders and exhaust will get hotter. I don't know if that can be a problem with the 1-litre petrol engine: I do know that it isn't an issue with the 1.9 TDI.
You will probably get the engine management light coming on. On the TDI that can be got around by having a small hole in the blanking plate - not sure it that's needed on a petrol engine. Blanking off the EGR will also not fix the existing sensor error, which I would think is causing the EML to light up already.
On my current car I've used VCDS to turn the EGR down to the lowest possible level - which is not zero, but is about the same as would be allowed by a blanking plate with a hole in it. The advantage is that the ECU has been set to expect the new, low level of EGR and the EML doesn't come on. I don't know if that's possible with your engine.
On my previous Toledo TDI 110 I just disconnected the electrical connector to the N18 valve (which on your car is part of the EGR valve unit). The older version of ECU software didn't light up the EML when I did that, but later versions do, and I'm pretty sure yours will too.
You will probably get the engine management light coming on. On the TDI that can be got around by having a small hole in the blanking plate - not sure it that's needed on a petrol engine. Blanking off the EGR will also not fix the existing sensor error, which I would think is causing the EML to light up already.
On my current car I've used VCDS to turn the EGR down to the lowest possible level - which is not zero, but is about the same as would be allowed by a blanking plate with a hole in it. The advantage is that the ECU has been set to expect the new, low level of EGR and the EML doesn't come on. I don't know if that's possible with your engine.
On my previous Toledo TDI 110 I just disconnected the electrical connector to the N18 valve (which on your car is part of the EGR valve unit). The older version of ECU software didn't light up the EML when I did that, but later versions do, and I'm pretty sure yours will too.
Its usually a fault with a dirty and carboned up throttle body
Try new plugs and ht leads as a misfire will cause the same code
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=vw...13&start=17&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:19,s:0,i:123
Try new plugs and ht leads as a misfire will cause the same code
http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=vw...13&start=17&ndsp=21&ved=1t:429,r:19,s:0,i:123
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