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SEAT Leon MK2 Cupra R 2011 (Revo 2+)

Discussion in 'Member's reviews' started by Legojon, Aug 24, 2018.

  1. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    Just to add to the completeness of this. I wouldn't class these so much as upgrades as "things you can spend money on".

    Battery box:

    You don't realise you need this till you have it. The MK2s are designed to remove excess water off the bonnet by dripping it onto the negative terminal of the battery. Luckily, they put a piece of cloth between the water and the terminal. After a decade, this is really unpleasant. So for only 30 of your pounds, you can order these part numbers: 3C0915335, 3C0915336A, 3C0915443A. And will transform this:
    [​IMG]

    Into this:
    [​IMG]

    Mould sheet:

    Under every bonnet lurks a most likely mouldy sheet of sound proofing. As water leaks through the scuttle, this gets wet, mouldy and sags down onto your engine bay cover. Choices are, remove it completely, but then that water is going into your engine bay:

    [​IMG]

    Or seal the scuttle following the guide here:
    https://forums.seatcupra.net/index....ttle-panel-mk2-leon-new-style-backing.396567/

    Porsche caps:

    Not that there's any really benefit... but if you too want to own two pieces of a Porsche this is your chance. The coolant cap is a direct fit. I believe the oil cap will fit with or without the filler neck (but I've kept the neck so can't confirm the former). Note that the oil cap doesn't sit straight. Which is fine. There is a guide out there to take it apart and put it back together straight. But sounds a lot of work to me.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Dip stick:

    The most expensive dipstick you'll ever own. The good news is, the dipstick seals (little rubber bits) tend to break up and can be a cause of many head scratching issues. So just replacing the dipstick if it's a decade old is a good call. This one apart from looking awesome (even if I say so myself) has the bonus of an indented section for reading the oil level. This stops you scraping oil off the tube on the way up then trying to figure out where your actual oil level is. Also makes it much easier to read:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Engine cover:

    If you have an intake and you want an engine cover, you have two choices. You can try and cut down your old engine cover which some have found some success with. Or you can buy a new or used TTS cover (and have more fun painting it yourself). Note that if you buy the TTS cover (which I don't have) you'll need to buy the longer fitting bolts as well.
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    So... a couple more maintenance items to add. So I'm just reaching 50k miles now. Lifetime is 100k right? Well, I thought it'd be a good time to check some of the things the service schedule doesn't include.

    Injectors:

    Mine weren't too bad, but can cause loads of issues if they fail. For circa £300 you can have em ripped out, tested and replaced. Waste of money if they are fine right? Well, yes / no. When they are replaced (I believe) new injector seals should be fitted, but also the filter baskets have a habit of melting in your hand, not in your mouth. So it's good to get those renewed as well:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Oil pick up pipe:

    As we know, oil is the lifeblood of engines and starving it of oil for even a few seconds can be fatal. Essential to this is the oil pickup pipe. This has a little mesh filter on it and as the name suggests, it picks things up out of the sump. Trouble is, after many years and many miles, it's prone to pickup all kinds of rubbish. Clogging can reduce it's efficiency. Changing it is fairly straightforward, but does involve removing the oil sump (so time it when your next oil change is due) and will look something like this:

    [​IMG]

    Finally, the jury is still out on the...

    Timing chain:

    Again, if this slips, stretches or breaks, pain is ahead. Apparently in VCDs you can check the "stretch" which I'd have to check but may be blocks 208 / 209?!? But basically the closer to 0, the better. Mine is currently sitting at -3,-3. If I was paying attention, Seat recommend changing the chain / tensioner at -5, I was advised to wait till -7. But apparently "I'll know" which I assume to mean the engine will become really rattly / noisy. Whether I change this as a precaution, I'm not yet sure...

    [​IMG]
     
    #22 Legojon, Jun 27, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2019
    Yellow fr likes this.
  3. Russc

    Russc Full Member

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    Brilliant write up, thanks. Looking at sorting my Mk2 cupra for a track toy and this has answers to lots of the questions I had :clap:
     
  4. Legojon

    Legojon I only wanted a remap
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    Cheers. If there's any other questions, I'm sure me or someone else on here should be able to answer them for you.
     
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