Steering Audio Control Wiring for aftermarket Head Unit Installation

pennywise

Active Member
Apr 11, 2016
43
1
South Yorkshire
I have a 2006 Seat Leon FR TDI (Mk2)
Hi guys,

I am looking to replace the original stereo/radio/headunit due to sound distortion when I turn the volume up. I had a quick look at the spec of the original stereo and found that it outputs 4 x 20 watts which when compared to other aftermarket head units is a lot lower (normally aftermarket ones are around 4 x 50 watts).

I have steering wheel audio controls and do not want to lose these. I am planning to fit it myself.

I am hoping to setup the steering controls myself without purchasing an adapter.
As far as I understand, the 3.5mm jack that connects to the head units "wired remote" input basically inputs different resistances which the head unit interprets as different commands.
So on the 3.5mm jack, one connection is ground and then the other 2 connections are used to input resistance, for example:

1,2K = source/2 sec. off
3,3k = ATT (mute)
5,6K = display (song tag info/RDS,...)
8,2K = tune up/next track
12K = tune down/previous track
15K = volume up +
22K = volume down -
56K = band/escape
8,2K + diodes = preset up/folder up
12K + diodes = preset down/folder down

I found that information on another site, which you can find if you google "Pioneer wired remote hack" (won't let me post links here until I have 15 posts or something)

So I was wondering if anyone knows which connections on the original stereo (which I'll be removing) are used for the steering wheel controls?

If I can find out which connections the original stereo uses, then I can simply use a few resistors to enable my steering wheel controls, any information would be appreciated.

Thanks guys

My first post! :)
 
Last edited:

The_Saint

Active Member
Apr 6, 2014
307
12
Cardiff
I admire your electronic wizardry but Connects2 will save you a lot of hassle unless you are doing this in the interests of science in which case good luck.
 

pennywise

Active Member
Apr 11, 2016
43
1
South Yorkshire
I admire your electronic wizardry but Connects2 will save you a lot of hassle unless you are doing this in the interests of science in which case good luck.

Yea I kind of tend to have a weird problem where when I want to do something myself and figure out how, I can spend ages learning how until I end up doing it, even though the connects2 adapter will work out cheaper after one considers all the time I spend learning how lol

However, I think you're right, maybe I will have to let go this time and just buy it since I don't want to risk damaging any internal circuitry of the car!

Just thought I'd make the post and ask in case anyone knew the exact wiring for it
 

pennywise

Active Member
Apr 11, 2016
43
1
South Yorkshire
Might be worthwhile upgrading your speakers to, as with a more powerful head unit will put them under more strain when the volume is up loud

Yea I've been reading up a bit about upgrading the speakers too, it's a common upgrade since the factory sound system isn't great.

I'm no audiophile so I won't be putting in any amps or subs, just the aftermarket head unit (Pioneer FH-X700BT) and maybe new speakers if it still doesn't sound decent after the initial head unit upgrade.

Any speaker recommendations?
The Pioneer FH-X700BT head unit manual states:
"Use speakers over 50 W (output value) and between 4 to 8 ohm (impedance value). Do not use 1 to 3 ohm speakers for this unit."

So do I need speakers which are a minimum of 50 W RMS value?

Do you think I'll have to change the wiring too or will head unit and speakers be enough? not sure how much difference wiring would make if I changed both head unit and speakers.

Should I keep the factory tweeters connected or disconnect them? (even if I get 3 way speakers that have a tweeter)

Thanks
 
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