Stock boost 1.9 TDI ASV

[Seatmann]

If turbo seals are gone and the oil is pissing through it's usually blue smoke, if it's fuel it's usually white or black.
The gasket is probably irrelevant seeing as your about 370 odd psi and the minimum is about 270 so that's pretty good.
If injectors are pooped you could have plenty of power but because of the way they flowed it wouldn't get burnt properly. It should go in in a nice spray/mist but knackered ones tend to dribble.

When the car's cold can you smell the diesel out the exhaust? Or does it smell oily?

The basic problem you're having is the boost seems high and it smokes a lot?

Has the car been mapped?

Is it still the original injectors or were they also changed along with the rods?

 

[F3rAL]

When car is running cold i can smell diesel, and the smoke when I start it is white bluish. Boost is high, but no smoke, when accelerating or idle. Don't know if it has been remapped only have this car for a couple of months. Rods only replaced, some injectors replaced withcused good ones, but nothing was checked yet properly, so it might be injectors. Anyone have any ideas how much does it cost to clean and test them?

 

[Seatmann]

Check out united diesels, I think that's the guys for the UK that are recommended. I'm asking about the injectors because the bent rods suggest the oil from the old turbo went through the cylinders which is usually what bends the rods but the injectors might have gotten a bit messy from burning the oil too.

Anyway check the pump timing and the IQ, injection quantity, if the timing's retarded that could make it hard to start.

I suspect the injectors are dribbling while the car is sat though but it's good to check everything anyway.

Is it just with vagcom that you're testing the boost? Also if the car's not hitting limp mode I suspect it might well be mapped, not sure how to check that. Normally the ecu cuts the fuel and sends the car into limp mode if the boost is out with specs so I can only think it's been set in the ecu.

 

[Bondiblu]

I would also be tempted to make sure the fuel temp sensor is working as it should, I believe this to be under a little cover on the pump itself, this could also possibly explain incorrect fueling. I had very similar symptoms on an old MK4 golf 90bhp.

I agree too with checking the timing and recommend getting some logs done, this will definitely aid diagnosis.

 

[Seatmann]

Yeh it's in the top of the pump but I doubt that would cause anything noticeable.

 

[Bondiblu]

Yeh it's in the top of the pump but I doubt that would cause anything noticeable.

Definitely can cause problems with starting, that was the issue on my Golf, same goes for coolant temp sensor, have a look on TDIclub. Saying that, it does sound like there is more to it in this case.

Regarding the other issues, diagnostics and Logs is the way forward.

 

[Seatmann]

My fuel temp sensor was knackered for 2 years with no issues at all, it doesn't affect starting on a non PD engine. I know there's various info on the club, I'm on there every night but I still say it doesn't do anything except help with the graph for the timing lol.

 

[Bondiblu]

My fuel temp sensor was knackered for 2 years with no issues at all, it doesn't affect starting on a non PD engine. I know there's various info on the club, I'm on there every night but I still say it doesn't do anything except help with the graph for the timing lol.

no probs mate I won't argue, it fixed my problem though and anyway there are a lot of temperature correction maps in the ECU which rely on correct signals from the sensors to monitor injection.

 

[Seatmann]

no probs mate I won't argue, it fixed my problem though

I was just away to get my boots on and come round and beat you up too

I know there's all this monitoring stuff going on in the ecu but realistically, how would the fuel temp affect starting? Give me some logic el capitano

 

[Bondiblu]

For starters, heres an image of the Start IQ map for an Ibiza ASV engine x-axis is temperature, y-axis is RPM and z-axis is injected Quantity, so depending how wrong the sensor has gone (as they won't all go wrong in the same way) look at the difference in IQ

 

[Bondiblu]

FUELTEMPERATURE affects its viscosity, injector atomization and evaporation
rate. Diesel at 150 F will atomize into drops half the size of diesel at -30F. This also
means twice the liquid surface area initially exposed to the charge air. Evaporation rate is
sped up leading to a faster combustible mixture. So fuel that is warmer has ignition that
proceeds faster, requiring injection timing retard. Increase fuel temperature > retard
timing too, so it has all sorts of repercussions.

after all this, it was only a suggestion to possibly help the OP.....

 

[Seatmann]

Geez I wish I hadn't asked now

 

[F3rAL]

HI thanks for all the info. Is that sensor in the fuel pump replaceable and if it is bad would it come up as a fault or would it be the same problem as coolant temp sensor, where it does not now correct temperature and always turn glow plugs on, I had this problem but changed coolant temp sensor and glow plugs don't come up. Timing has been checked million times. The idea of injector dripping diesel into cylinder overnight could be the problem I will have to check that my way somehow, get a spare injector and replace them every night and see how it starts (Spent so much on this can not afford anymore not even injector cleaning) If someone can tell me what should be the correct figures for IQ and I will check them tomorrow on snapon unit. I don't have vcds and can not get one to log anything I can just borrow snapon to monitor what needs to be monitored.
Thanks

 

[Seatmann]

The fuel temp sensor normally throws a code

As does the coolant one 9 times out of 10, depends how bad it is. It does sound like it's maybe going to be an injector thing though with all the info so far. Unplug the coolant temp sensor tomorrow before you start it so the glow plugs come on for longer and see if it starts better, it might help if there's excess fuel sitting in the bores.

 

[F3rAL]

Tried unplugging coolant temp sensor and starting same thing with glow plugs on for around 10 seconds.
And I don't get any codes, but will check again tomorrow.
If anyone can give me IQ figures.
thanks

 

[Bondiblu]

The fuel temp sensor normally throws a code


As does the coolant one 9 times out of 10, depends how bad it is. It does sound like it's maybe going to be an injector thing though with all the info so far. Unplug the coolant temp sensor tomorrow before you start it so the glow plugs come on for longer and see if it starts better, it might help if there's excess fuel sitting in the bores.

With a fault like "short to ground" the ECU is generally then set to switch to coolant temperature monitoring. The concerning faults are the ones that don't throw a fault code, but provide incorrect feedback.

I do agree, this appears to be an injection/timing issue of sort. Regarding logging IQ, the problem here is you'll be seeing expected IQ, whether or not its correct is a different storey.

 

[Seatmann]

Just check IQ at idle, that's not expected but what's actually leaving the pump, this faq tells you what to check but don't worry about the hammer mod.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/multi/IQ-adjust-hammer-mod-TDI.htm


Not logging, just seeing where it's actually set to.


What do you mean by expected Bondiblu? Usually you get specified versus actual with vagcom

 

[Seatmann]

I would consider trying this stuff

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_kw=diesel+purge

They use it on the tdiclub a lot and there's vids on youtube showing you how to use it.

 

[Bondiblu]

What do you mean by expected Bondiblu? Usually you get specified versus actual with vagcom

Both specified and actual are calculated values, derived from a bunch of calibration and correction tables in the software, and probably quite accurate if all the hardware is functioning as it should. If we throw faulty injectors, pumps, sensors etc into the mix, then the specified and actual may be well out compared to a physical actual amount.

Take for instance - Changing the injectors on a car and NOT changing the calibration maps. The car doesn't know they've been changed and therefore will calculate specified and actual using the same calibration and correction tables and therefore IQ won't be accurate anymore.

Thats what I mean by expected.

 

[Seatmann]

I'm not sure that's very accurate bud, when I fitted my bigger injectors the IQ changed all by itself and I had to set it to a better spot to get the best from them without smoke. I believe the specified is a map thing same as the boost and maf readings etc but the actual does move about depending on what you do. Then when you do logs you try and get the actual to be as close as possible to the specified like it should be.
Like you can take off the top of the pump and access the quantity adjuster, I've seen people on the tdi club clean it up and get their specified and actual to be very close after.
I know the ecu doesn't know the nozzles have been changed (thankfully ) but it does still meter the fuel going out the pump. The electronics in the pump can also give you a rough idea of how much is going to each injector too, obviously roughly though as the injectors are mechanical on these lumps.