SX Starts then cuts out

[lagz33]

Hi guys
Drove to shop today, come out and my Cordy SX 2.0 turns over but cuts out straight away, it will rev if you give it beans but then after just dies.

Need the car for work and being a beginner with repairs/diagnostics etc I need to gather some info for what it could be or what I need to buy.

I've come to the conclusion that I should start with getting some carb cleaner to clean the throttle body.
Checked my relays are all in, checked no hoses have come off or anything.

Im thinking worse case scenario, replace throttle body OR fuel pump

Any other tips to get her starting again?

EDIT: A part number for the throttle body would also be handy!

 

[adelelzomor]

Throttle or maybe the fuel pump

 

[lagz33]

Ok so with the help of my mechanic friend, I have cleaned the throttle body, and checked that fuel is coming through which it is, it is sparking but not very well.

He suggested that tomorrow I go and buy an ignition coil, crank sensor and spark plugs, fit the ignition coil and plugs myself, if that doesn't work he will try and find the time to come and fit the crank sensor for me.

Hopefully its one of these things, any other advice is welcome.

 

[toddygti]

Fuel pump relay or crank sensor mate

 

[lagz33]

Thanks for that toddy, I will get hold of these parts and see if it sorts it.
Do you have any part numbers for them? Or can I order the ones for the golf 2.0 16v
mk3?
Euro don't seem to have alot listed for the cordoba sx even though its the VAG engine

 

[toddygti]

It's identical to the Golf 16v for both components. Start with the fuel pump relay as they're common and relatively cheap.
Either rob one from a scrappy job or buy genuine. ECP electrical components I rate as rubbish.

 

[lagz33]

It's identical to the Golf 16v for both components. Start with the fuel pump relay as they're common and relatively cheap.
Either rob one from a scrappy job or buy genuine. ECP electrical components I rate as rubbish.

Ok so my friend has fitted a new crank sensor, its now starting up revving up then dying.
He thinks its immobiliser....
He also said that a brake light fuse blew when he replaced it with a new one... so if its not the immo then its the fusebox...

Fuel and spark is ok

What do you guys think?

 

[toddygti]

Check for vacuum leaks or give it some throttle on starting and see if you can keep it alive.

If it doesn't stall then vac leaks, ignition switch, fuel pump relay potentially too, both still the cheaper option.

Check for wetness in the fusebox area too. The immobiliser is located on side of the car above the bonnet release handle usually. Check the wiring here.

 

[Nath.]

Try your spare key. It could be the chip in the key isn't being read. Do you get any flashing key symbols on the dash?

 

[lagz33]

Is unresponsive to throttle after first rev, you start it whilst giving it throttle, it revs up then just goes all the way down till it cuts out.

Will check these other things in the next couple of hours


I've tried both keys...

 

[toddygti]

Post a video and your location if you can please?

 

[lagz33]

Hi toddy, sorry for the late reply

Unable to get a video just yet as its with my friend a few miles from me, and have no transport.

Its currently in Epsom though, considering getting it to a dealership perhaps, but dont really have funds for that just yet spending £14 a day on bloody trains now.

To recap, it gets fuel it sparks, we've replaced the crank sensor, ignition coil, spark plugs.

I spoke to an "auto locksmith" he said the keys don't tend to lose their code on that model, and that he would charge a fortune just to look at it.... Really don't know what else to do

 

[toddygti]

Ok I need you to be more specific with your descriptions.

When it revs up after starting, do you then take your foot off the pedal?

Do the revs drop slowly then die or does the engine cut out and die?

If when started you keep your foot on the gas, do the revs stay up until you release?

Essentially the most important factors are if it does slowly or cuts out and whether it does this with your foot on the pedal or not.

 

[lagz33]

When it revs up, it will only go up once regardless of whether I keep my foot there or not.
Once it revs the revs drop slowly right down past a normal idle rpm and then dies.

So if i was to keep my accelerator all the way down whilst starting, it will start then rev up and drop down slowly till it cuts out.

Thanks Toddy, any advice you can give is much appreciated

 

[lagz33]

My mechanic friend and his engineer friend as well as a guy at a ford dealership all think its the immobiliser, so I have got a couple of quotes for someone to come and try and reprogram it, best I got was £90 to reprogram with no guarantee its actually that.

(Immo has been checked for anything obvious i.e. loose/damaged wires)

Wanted to see what you guys/toddy think before I plunge more money into this.


EDIT: Just spoke to another auto locksmith guy, he thinks that if it was the immo/key it would cut straight out, it wouldnt rev up and then slow down till it cuts out.......

 

[toddygti]

It would run for no more than 2 seconds and then cut out. Not die slowly like yours mate.

It's puzzling. I'd try vagcom first see what codes come up.

 

[lagz33]

Thats the thing, VAGCOM or Snap-On Modis will not pick up any codes at all. It cant communicate with the car....


Im on the verge of sending the ECU off to have the immo bypased for £75, so many people have said its that, it might just be worth the rest getting it done. Either that or I am going to scrap/sell the car.

 

[toddygti]

Check the fuel pressure regulator, these are known for sticking too

 

[adelelzomor]

I think you have some kind of dirt in your fuel pump,try with anther pump.

 

[lagz33]

I dont seem to be having any fuel issues, as that is coming through fine.

I am now looking into selling this car as I cant afford to send off ECU and MOT (money is being spent on another car)

If anyone wants to buy to fix up feel free to make me a sensible offer, has a new clutch and battery 120k miles.

Needs MOT but will pass after replacing front offside tyre.

If i cant sell it, i will SORN it and fix it up when I have the money to send ECU off