Tdi Toledo Starting problems

[159chrisymc]

hi everybody my name is chris an am from ireland
i have just bought a seat Toledo that will starts for a few seconds an cuts off an the immobilizer light is flashing
i have been reading the forum an cant really get any answers that i need
the car is out of Mot an cant get the car to a dealer to get it plugged in
i was thinking of getting a second hand key,barrel,clocks an ecu to fix my problem or is there a easier way?
any help would be great
thanks

 

[159chrisymc]

hey guys , just updating use on how am getting on
i changed my key , key barrel, clocks, ecu an the car starts great now
but theres a but lol ,wile the starts great an i have no lights on the dash i have no power whats so ever id be lucky to get up to 50 mph, any ideas???

 

[159chrisymc]

Bigger problems now
still had no power no matter what i done so i put the vacuum pipe straight to the turbo so it was running full boost ,i took the car for a test run ,still wasn't running correctly but a lot better, an i was changing in to 4th gear an the turbo busted an the engine started running off the oil an over revved the engine an stopped, i tried to stop the engine revving by braking in gear but the clutch started slipping
Really do not no what to do now

 

[d.mccarthy16]

Only after seeing this now so don't know if this is much good. Often if the car starts for a few seconds it's to do with the fuse for the clocks as the immobiliser is built into it. I've often had it after remapping a car that I'd go to start it and it'd cut off to realise I didn't put back in the fuse for the instrument cluster. All the tdis suffer the safe problems; blocked egr, split vac lines and stuck vanes in the vnt turbos. As soon as I got my Toledo I deleted the egr and cleaned the manifold, replaced all the vac lines with silicone and did the mr. muscle turbo clean, never gave any bother since. Connecting the actuator straight to the vacuum pump was not a good idea and unfortunately you learned the hard way. There's a solenoid which adjusts the vacuum to the actuator to vary boost depending on engine speed and throttle position. The actuator position varies a lot on how you're driving. You essentially forced the engine to overboost and since the vacuum wasn't plumbed correctly there was no way for the ecu to engage limp mode. There's not much activity here for older tdi owners. I do a lot of work with them through remapping and also mechanic work and I'm well used to helping people out with them. I could PM you my email address if you ever had any questions you could fire me an email.

 

[159chrisymc]

hi d mccarthy
your right i did learn the hard way lol
i have the new engine all in the car an its running ok i still have no real power
i thinks the turbo as the actuator barely move when your put the pipe on or would the waste gate on the turbo be seized?
you said you cleaned the vanes on the turbo how do you do this
many thanks chris

 

[d.mccarthy16]

Hi Chris,

What engine is in it do you know? The VE 90bhp engines are either an ALH or AGR, they're pretty much identical bar the fact the AGR has a K03 wastegate turbo and the ALH has the GT1749V VNT turbo. The VE 110bhp engines are either AHF or ASV both have the same turbo as the ALH. Then you have the PD130 turbo which has the GT1749VA turbo. If you're not sure what type turbo it is the easiest way to check is the number of bolts on the exhaust downpipe; 3 bolts = VNT, 4 bolts = wastegate. Mine was the VNT so I did the Mr. Muscle guide, there's a how to on briskoda.net and plenty of videos on youtube. The fact you've said the actuator is hard to move makes me think it's VNT. With the wastegate if there's an issue with the boost lines to control it it tends to stay shut which leads to an overboost condition.

Danny.

 

[159chrisymc]

danny it has the 3 studs on the down pipe
the car is a 110 bhp but the engine i put in am not sure if its a 110 bhp or 90 i was told there was no difference?

 

[d.mccarthy16]

In terms of internals etc. there is no real difference. The ASV engine has extra oil jets to help oil and cool the pistons, that's the only one that's slighty different. The injector nozzles are smaller on the 90bhp so if you left the injectors in situ the fuelling will be slightly off but I can't see it causing any real issue. If you look down on the engine block towards the front beside the bell housing, the engine code and number is printed there. It can be hard to see though as it's often corroded away.

 

[159chrisymc]

i just wk40 the at the actuator i though there was a waste gate, which way do u the mr muscel throught the egr or the downpipe

 

[d.mccarthy16]

It's a VNT (variable nozzle turbine) turbo. They have a series of rotating vanes in the exhaust housing which alter the geometry of the turbo to increase/decrease boost. All the VNTs give the distinctive 'boo' noise on let off with a straight through exhaust. I took the full EGR out on mine to do it as I was deleting it anyway. I'd put it straight into the EGR port on the manifold. Supposedly there's sodium hydroxide in Mr. Muscle which reacts will aluminium.

 

[159chrisymc]

Thanks for your help Danny
i already deleted the egr as i thought this was why id no power
i was wounding why i did have a boo as i started the engine with just the down pipe on
this was probably my problem from day 1 , why didnt you see my post at the the start danny lol

 

[d.mccarthy16]

No bother at all Chris! You're much better off without them, they're just hassle. Deleting it also gives a tiny bit more power once it's mapped out. I'd clean the intake manifold too if you haven't already, they also get fairly clogged. It's a pity alright lol. I'm not on here often at all as in the past if I've had a problem I could never get an answer on here. You have one of 2 issues I'd say; (1) Faulty N75 (boost solenoid)...I highly doubt that it is that, I've dealt with a lot of tdis with boost issues through remapping and I've never seen that to be the problem. (2) Split vacuum line, this is the case 99.9% of the time in my own experience. The older rubber hoses get frail and slit somewhere. Even the tiniest split which you wouldn't see with the naked eye will reek havoc with the boost control. You can do away with most of your vacuum lines and the egr solenoids once you delete it. Silicone vac lines are cheap as chips and much more durable. Are you 100% you plumbed the vacuum system correctly? I can take a picture of my own if that'd help. What part of Ireland are you from by the way? I'm in east Galway if you ever need VCDS or anything.

 

[159chrisymc]

Am in co tyrone, do you remap all diesels car or just vag ???
i think i have them right but if u a picture that would be great,
am going to get mr muscle tomorrow an clean the turbo,but i was in shed tonight an a hooked my old actuator on to the boost solenoid an it sucked it in when the car was running but as soon as i touched the accelerator it pushes out an jumps about, should it not hold it closed untill the correct amount of boost builds up or is this correct ?

 

[159chrisymc]

Am in co tyrone, do you remap all diesels car or just vag ???
i think i have them right but if u a picture that would be great,
am going to get mr muscle tomorrow an clean the turbo,but i was in shed tonight an a hooked my old actuator on to the boost solenoid an it sucked it in when the car was running but as soon as i touched the accelerator it pushes out an jumps about, should it not hold it closed untill the correct amount of boost builds up or is this correct ?

 

[d.mccarthy16]

I just do vag diesels up as far as 2008. I wouldn't mind getting into others in the future but I know the vags so well and have all the software it suits me nicely. I do it in my spare time so I'd say if I started doing others I'd never have any free time lol. This is what the n75 setup should be. All the other solenoids and vac lines you can pull out, they're not needed once you delete the EGR

 

[159chrisymc]

aw pitty as am looking my other car remaped as a bought a tuning box off ebay an it was a waste of time
thanks for the pic an i have my the way your pic is
do u think the a actuator should be moving about?

 

[159chrisymc]

what bhp can these take safely?

 

[159chrisymc]

your engine an gear box are like new, i see you have breather pipe going straight out ,must do that to mys as well

 

[d.mccarthy16]

The tuning boxes are a waste of time, a custom remap is the only way to go. The internals can take up to 200bhp or so. The turbos can push up to 1.3 bar reliably and with the 110 injector nozzles you can make up to 150bhp. If you get the nozzles from a 2.5 tdi you should be able to get 165bhp-170bhp. Mine is in the region of 150bhp or so at the moment. It is a lot more torquey than standard and my dmf is now starting to rattle so I would recommend a solid mass flywheel conversion. I power washed and steam cleaned it a while back but I don't have the plastic undertray anymore so it tends to get dirty easy . I only vented the CCV to atmosphere after I remapped it. A mate of mine had a remapped pd150 leon and he always complained of oil in his boost piping. It was never an issue for me till I cranked up the boost and saw straight away what he was on about. All it really does is help keep stop the intercooler getting a layer of oil in it which would it's cooling ability. The standard hockey puck CCV is meant to just release excess crankcase pressure but they don't work well at all and the oil vapours get sucked through into the intake piping.

 

[159chrisymc]

thanks again
i hope the cleaning of the vains will work an then maybe see about a remap