The aircon saga continues...

[benholden2015]

Aircon still isnt working and its driving me mad now!

So far ive had the system gassed up, after fitting a new condensor, and its holding pressure fine!

It had an intermittend fault were it would work for about 20mins after starting the car, then slowly die off till it blew out warm air.

Ive checked power to the pressure sensor, and to the compressor.

Ignition on the pressure sensor reads 12v, engine running reads 14v

Ignition on the air compressor reads 3.5v, engine running 12v.

Both fans arnt spinning, unless i unplug the pressure sensor, then plug it back in. They spin up then shut down straight away?

Im thinking a faulty pressure sensor, but its still sending 12v to the compressor, so surely it cant be?

Getting it put on vcds tonight, hopefully thay should bring up a code or two

Any suggestions?

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[lugsy]

depends what kind of compressor you have fitted , one with a clutch and one where it is on constantly but alters pressure in the sysTem, could have a txv valve freezing up due to moisture in the system blocking up and building up pressure then shutting it sown , hard to say unless you hook it up to a air con machine and watch the gauges

 

[benholden2015]

Just to update on this, ive been to see an aircon specialist today, and they've confirmed the compressor is knackered very common on the variable compression compressors apparently. Gas and pressure was fine, all sensors reading ok, but compressor was not performing when checked on vcds. Ive spent about £200 chasing this problem, and im not willing to shell out another £300+ on a new compressor atm, so **** it

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[t121anf]

This any good?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-LEON...217297?hash=item2111f56b91:g:rOkAAOSwjXRXbQTw

 

[Israar]

Ive checked power to the pressure sensor, and to the compressor.

Ignition on the pressure sensor reads 12v, engine running reads 14v

Ignition on the air compressor reads 3.5v, engine running 12v.

Both fans arnt spinning, unless i unplug the pressure sensor, then plug it back in. They spin up then shut down straight away?

Hey mate, is there any chance you could take a picture for me please or explain how you checked power to the pressure sensor and compressor?

I've no idea where the pressure sensor is for the A/C and I'm hazarding a guess you checked the power to the compressor where the plug goes in to it? If so, how did you manage to access it?

When you mention both fans aren't spinning do you mean the 2 fans on the radiator? As I've not checked myself to see if they spin or not when I try turning on my A/C. I'm in a similar boat to you, had the A/C fully recharged and was told to eliminate the compressor and relay, though was told the compressor is a common fault on these.

Mines a 2010 plate FR though no clue what compressor I have on it as I can't see the label that's on the compressor

--Lee

 

[benholden2015]

Just tried to take a picture, its proving impossible due to the location of it and my crap camera. But basically as you open the bonnet, locate the compressor and on the opposite end to the pully, theres an electrical connector. This is how you check power to it using a multimeter. The pressor sensor is located to The right of the drivers headlight, right down towards to bottom of the engine bay. Both jobs reqired the undertray off, aswell as the front bumper and headlights. Its also alot easier to remove the full radiator pack to access too, but this is were the job becomes a ball ache!

The ac system fires up both radiator fans when running, so if there not turning, your ac aint working

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[benholden2015]

Just pulled the car in the garage....aircon fired up, nice n cold straight away. Popped the bonnet, checked pressure to make sure compressor was running, all ok, left it for less than 5 mins and the fans shut down and compressor switched off....these problems are the worst kind! Arghhhhh

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[Israar]

Cheers Ben!

I know where the connector is for the compressor, I have seen that on mine though now I have an idea where the pressure sensor is!

I don't have a full under tray, someone must have taken it off before my brother had it to do work on it and never put it back, I have the side under trays just not the one under the sump... I had to take off the fabric protection for the sump as it got soaked and split, that was a game to take off as one of the plastic screws wouldn't come out and threaded itself when I was trying to get it out

As for the bumper and headlights, I've never gone that far before with a car to strip the front end off, I'm taking it's relatively easy to take the front bumper off and headlights? Is there anything to be wary of when taking these off to do work or?

Do you have any guide for fittings so I know what to unscrew and what not to unscrew? Sorry for the lack of knowledge mate!

See I don't believe the radiator fans do power up when switching the A/C + Recirc on, albeit I never actually checked as it's the first time I've ever worked or had a car with A/C

I know for a fact A/C is not working, as it blows normal air through, I'm just not entirely sure where my problem lies right now!

Thanks for the help by the way, really appreciate it matey!

--Lee

 

[benholden2015]

Tbh, it takes longer to get the darn undertray off that it does the bumper, so your halfway there already lol.

Front bumper on mine (its a btcc) has 4 screws in each wheel arch, and 4 on the front slam panel as you open the bonnet. All torque bits. Theres also about 6 pozi drive screws holding the bumper on from underneath, simple once you get under and look. After this, itll pull away but you need to give the sides (were the bumper meets the wings) a firm tugg as theor clipped in. Remove the bumper so far and then unclip fog light connectors. This is now the bumper removed!

Headlights have 3 torque screws holding them in, again very easy to remove.

You can now get decent access to the pressure switch, but only to unclip it to test the connections. You should have a constant 12v with ingnition on.

The compressor connection is essiest accessed from underneath, abit of a pig iirc but it will come off. You should have about 3.5v with ignition on, and about 12-13v with engine running.

If this is all ok, it means your pressure sensor is fine as its allowing power to the compressor.

This seems to point to a faulty compressor, as if the gas is full, and at the right pressure, the sensor is working and the compressors getting power. The only reasonable reason it isnt working is that the compressor itself is faulty.

Now to change the pressure sensor or compressor, you need to remove the full radiator pack and front crash bar.

Considering ive had this front end apart atleast 3 times in the last week i cant face doing it again! Aswell as the cost of a new compressor, hence why im leaving it......for now

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[OldManPooley]

In all seriousness gents my aircon isnt the best i.e not that cold but the amount of grief and money its causing you to try a fix it surely aint worth it?

We live in Britain FFS!

Now if it was a running fault yeah that would do my head in, but unless it was an easy fix, aircon nah, fcuk it!

 

[benholden2015]

In all seriousness gents my aircon isnt the best i.e not that cold but the amount of grief and money its causing you to try a fix it surely aint worth it?

We live in Britain FFS!

Now if it was a running fault yeah that would do my head in, but unless it was an easy fix, aircon nah, fcuk it!

Couldn't agree more, i started out thinking mine was a cheap fix, but its cost me over £200 just to diagnose what the potential fault is, now in my case, its going to cost me atleast another £350 to get it up and running....and like you said, for the 3 weeks a year you use it, its simply not worth it

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[Israar]

Tbh, it takes longer to get the darn undertray off that it does the bumper, so your halfway there already lol.

Front bumper on mine (its a btcc) has 4 screws in each wheel arch, and 4 on the front slam panel as you open the bonnet. All torque bits. Theres also about 6 pozi drive screws holding the bumper on from underneath, simple once you get under and look. After this, itll pull away but you need to give the sides (were the bumper meets the wings) a firm tugg as theor clipped in. Remove the bumper so far and then unclip fog light connectors. This is now the bumper removed!

Headlights have 3 torque screws holding them in, again very easy to remove.

You can now get decent access to the pressure switch, but only to unclip it to test the connections. You should have a constant 12v with ingnition on.

The compressor connection is essiest accessed from underneath, abit of a pig iirc but it will come off. You should have about 3.5v with ignition on, and about 12-13v with engine running.

If this is all ok, it means your pressure sensor is fine as its allowing power to the compressor.

This seems to point to a faulty compressor, as if the gas is full, and at the right pressure, the sensor is working and the compressors getting power. The only reasonable reason it isnt working is that the compressor itself is faulty.

Now to change the pressure sensor or compressor, you need to remove the full radiator pack and front crash bar.

Considering ive had this front end apart atleast 3 times in the last week i cant face doing it again! Aswell as the cost of a new compressor, hence why im leaving it......for now

That's good being half way there already then if the under tray is the most troublesome part!

Mine's standard FL FR bumper hehe, with your explanation should be a nice little task to do, I don't need to jack the car up or anything do I? I can leave it on all 4 wheels? If so that will make things a lot easier, will just get some shoddy towels to lie the bumper, etc on them!

Say the pressure sensor isn't having 12v with ignition on then I need a new sensor right? What would it read if it's not working as it should?

Haha, I bet it takes you no time at all to strip them down then, will take me a while since I haven't ever done it!

I know mines fully gassed, so just need to eliminate pressure sensor, compressor or relay I believe?

In all seriousness gents my aircon isnt the best i.e not that cold but the amount of grief and money its causing you to try a fix it surely aint worth it?

We live in Britain FFS!

Now if it was a running fault yeah that would do my head in, but unless it was an easy fix, aircon nah, fcuk it!

To me this sounds like yours is working as intended albeit low on gas?

I can agree with your seriousness of the money cost, though to me personally if I have something and it's not working as it should I want it to work, so I either try to fix it myself or get it sorted or just be done with it, in the cars case, at some point it will be working as it should!

I'm doing as much free testing as possible, it's cost me only £30 so far, which is pennies to the cost of some!

Yeah we live in Britain, but still we all have our own feels for things, I have A/C and it WILL work at some point haha! Thanks for the input though, it's nice to see others involved

Couldn't agree more, i started out thinking mine was a cheap fix, but its cost me over £200 just to diagnose what the potential fault is, now in my case, its going to cost me atleast another £350 to get it up and running....and like you said, for the 3 weeks a year you use it, its simply not worth it

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Haha, need to dash to work now so will reply to this tomorrow!

--Lee

 

[benholden2015]

That's good being half way there already then if the under tray is the most troublesome part!

Mine's standard FL FR bumper hehe, with your explanation should be a nice little task to do, I don't need to jack the car up or anything do I? I can leave it on all 4 wheels? If so that will make things a lot easier, will just get some shoddy towels to lie the bumper, etc on them!

Say the pressure sensor isn't having 12v with ignition on then I need a new sensor right? What would it read if it's not working as it should?

Haha, I bet it takes you no time at all to strip them down then, will take me a while since I haven't ever done it!

I know mines fully gassed, so just need to eliminate pressure sensor, compressor or relay I believe?



To me this sounds like yours is working as intended albeit low on gas?

I can agree with your seriousness of the money cost, though to me personally if I have something and it's not working as it should I want it to work, so I either try to fix it myself or get it sorted or just be done with it, in the cars case, at some point it will be working as it should!

I'm doing as much free testing as possible, it's cost me only £30 so far, which is pennies to the cost of some!

Yeah we live in Britain, but still we all have our own feels for things, I have A/C and it WILL work at some point haha! Thanks for the input though, it's nice to see others involved



Haha, need to dash to work now so will reply to this tomorrow!

--Lee

I only needed to jack car up to remove undertray, so you should be fine tbh.

Yea if your getting 12v to the compressor once engines running, then that rules out the pressure sensor.

Let us know how you get on, as i was pretty sure it was my compressor, but since the bugger worked for about 5mins earlier im leaning more towards an electrical type problem, way outa my league though, ive checked what i can and im convinced everythings working right.

My other option, is to purchase vcds and compare the data when its running (if i can get it running again) to the data thats not?

Im fed up of thinking about it tbh, ill see what tonorrow brings haha

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[Israar]

Sorted mate, sounds lovely!

Was planning to take the bumper off friday and have a look, but looks like I'm going to have to do my brake pads, heard a noise on the rear passenger side yesterday and looks like I'm a pad down now.

I believe I've found the pressure sensor and I might be able to get to it without taking off the bumper, albeit to do the compressor I have no choice but to!

See mine hasn't started at all and I get nothing from the fans when pressing the A/C button either. Am I right that our A/C relay is the one single relay in the engine bay? 370?

I can't compare data since I've never had a running A/C haha!

What Leon are you running? Also do you mind me asking where you're from mate?

Hope all is well!

--Lee

 

[benholden2015]

Atleast pads are a simple job haha

You can access the pressure sensor enough to remove the plug without removing the front bumper, but its a pita lol.

Mine dosent have an a/c button as such, it only has an econ button which turns it off, as its constantly running otherwise (probably why they seem to fail so often. Well done VW)

The relay in question, according to autodata i think it was an engine control relay, or something like that. I testedit anyway and it was working spot on.

Ive got a mk2 2.0tdi btcc and im from middlesbrough

Worked again this morning, but 3 miles down the road it give up, so ive purchased vcds this afternoon so i can check for faults myself.

Ill update if it brings anything up

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[Israar]

Aye, true enough luckily the discs are fine, though the rear pad definitely needs to be replaced so will do front and rear together!

Yeah it does look tight when it comes to trying to test with the multimeter though doable! I'll try that first but if not I'll have to remove the bumper to test!

Ahh, yeah mine has the A/C button but read you have to have the recirc turned on to start A/C but could be wrong!

I know very little when it comes to electrics, especially car electrics haha! It's over my head! ^^

Sweet, how does yours run? Is yours a PD or CR? I ain't sure myself on them XD Middlesbrough is a trek but not too bad haha!

Damn, well at least one things for sure yours works which eliminates (hopefully) the compressor! I just hope VCDS works for you to get right down to the core fault. How much did that set you back if you don't mind me asking?

Fingers crossed for you with it though superman!

--Lee

 

[benholden2015]

Its very tight! You can only just get the prongs from the multimeter into the holes, my arms cut to bits were i first tried before removing the bumper lol.

Its a pd170, mapped to around 200bhp, but still has the DPF so im expecting that to give me problems soon enough!

I bought it off amazon, its the latest version with canbus cable, works with all vw models from 1994 to 2015, £35

Ill be commuting from mbro to derby when i start my new job next week, so hopefully vdcs gives her the all clear and she'll be as good as gold haha

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[Israar]

It is tight matey! Not yet tried, took longer than expected to finish my brake pads yesterday as I ended up starting so late in the day due to getting caught up with other things!

Main thing is the brake pads are done and dusted with, but boy they was unreal! Who ever MoT'd the car should have spotted them, they never came up as an advisory on my brothers last MoT in November gone.

Cutting myself ain't a problem though lol, I couldn't care less about that so long as I don't damage anything in the process on the car! :ROFL:

Sweet, I'm looking forward to when the time comes to remap this, though when I had the car on the axel stands I noticed a little hidden swine on the exhaust, will post a pick soon haha!

I intend on keeping my DPF but from what I've seen those with PD engine suffer really bad with it after having them mapped?

Do you have a link for it at all mate? I keep coming up with cheap nasty ones

Awesome, what have you managed to bag yourself mate? Have you managed to get VCDS running with the Air Con for logging or?

Pictures!

Old Vs New Pad!

This is one little hidden nasty I found tooting around

--Lee

 

[benholden2015]

Them pads are centainly well worn! Haha, very lucky not to have damaged disks....do you need a rewind tool for the rear pads on these? Ive got 1, but just curious lol.

I cant post a link to the kit i bought as i havent made more than 15 posts yet (stupid forum rules)

So if u want it pm me and ill send it over...


Arrived this morning....very quick delivery. Ive had a quick play about with it, and so far it seems very good, ive already taken the seatbelt warning chime and activated various other stuff on both my leon and the missus TT.

With regards to the aircon problem, vcds says everything is working fine, but when i compare the firgures to the TT's figures, the torque load on the compressor is alot different, so im assuming from this that mines either buggered or very lazy! Annoying really as id of liked vcds to atleast come up with some kind of fault, but thats not the case

And with regards to your exhaust, mines alot worse. The whole second skin has basically disappeared lol! Again typical vw using cheap **** steel no doubt...

My 2006 vectra came standard from the factory with a full stainless remus! No cost cutting there lol



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[Israar]

Tell me about it, how in the world a mechanic never spotted them is beyond me!

Yeah I am definitely lucky the discs are still fine, though in all fairness I will be changing the discs soon enough once I have the cambelt and waterpump + service done, that to me is more important at present given the discs are still in decent shape!

You definitely need the rewind tool for the rears, I cracked the bleed nipple a tiny bit and it went back a treat with that and the brake fluid cap open, I got a decent set from Amazon, really good bargain!

Oooooo, unlucky hehe only 1 more post! ;-) I'll PM you though, that's not a problem!

I've got Carista but I won't get what I want to see from that like I would if I had VCDS as that is more tailored for our cars I believe

Haha nice, I'll be keeping the seat belt chime on, I like that so I know when to tell the shotgun rider off!

Hmm mental, is it the same kind of system in a TT as it is with ours or? I literally am clueless for it haha! Although it is gutting if yours is just being lazy

Well at least I know it's not a major problem then! So for now I can hold off with that hehe! :grin: Well, blighters for them cheap skating us!

I'm taking it remus is a great exhaust or something?

--Lee