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Toldedo mk2 Clutch Issue

Discussion in 'MK1 & MK2 Toledo' started by barrymurphy, Feb 20, 2019.

  1. barrymurphy

    barrymurphy Active Member

    Dec 14, 2016
    Likes Received:
    Hi, I have a Toledo that started getting sort of hard to get into gearin approx November. It very slowly got worse but I was generally able to change gearswith minor coaxing and she was grinding a little on reverse. I recall one Sunday morning bleeding the slave and it seemed to get near perfect but after about an hour of driving got worse again but not too bad. The reason I bled the slave was that at the start of November I was changing a caliper and let the master run near dry. The brakes went very soft after refilling the master so I bled it but it too a long time to get it near right. The brakes seem fine, (not sure how they compare to pre caliper change but they seem ok). So as this got gradually worse, I was thinking a clutch replace was needed, or release bearing or pressure plate gone. I could drive the car, just a little roughly. I eventually replaced the slave but the symptoms the same. I left the car over xmas and recharged the battery to get her going again and she was then times worse after not having been driven or touched at all. Now she wont go into first, she will get into reverse with a quick grind but will not come back out of reverse, I can get second roughly and also third and fourth. The clutch is not releasing when I push in the pedal and if I try to put it in gear with clutch to floor, it wants to move. Even if I lift the pedal a smidge, it wants to move. Now I know the clutch disc is in good nick, she really wants to take off and always has done. I am adding up all of the above and........ Why did she get so much worse just sitting for 4 weeks? When I bled the slave it gave a temporary relief in November but subsequent bleedings do nothing. There is no noise as if a release bearing iss broken, a fork broken or dual mass flywheel vibrating. Could this all be a master cylinder that has failed? if so would my brakes not be affected also. (there is no leak) Has me letting the master cylinder run dry somehow damaged it? I was all set for a clutch change but the car getting worse while not in use, the no symptoms of anything broken in clutch and it seeming to coincide with the caliper change are making me think. Has anyone any experience with such an issue or any advice they could give? Appreciate it, Regards Barry
  2. spudboy6

    spudboy6 Active Member

    Feb 4, 2014
    Likes Received:
    Best thing I would advise is to buy a eazi bleeder from Halfords and pressure bleed the clutch and brake system

    See how you go from there on,

    I’ve had no end of trouble bleeding a clutch manually because the pipe goes right into the top of the bottle so if you ever have a leak you loose the clutch before the brakes .

    It’s so high up you constantly have to keep the brakes fluid topped up to the very top and can easily get air in the clutch and your back at square one
    Also I’ve never had great results pumping a clutch pedal myself

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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