I recently subbed my Toledo and obviously had to find a way to take the wires from the front to the boot. I did so thus. Preparation. 1. Open passenger door 2. Remover small plastic trim covering the now exposed end of the dash board. This is held on by 3 metal clips and can be easily prised off by using a small screw driver when the arrow points (towards the rear edge of the plastic piece) 3. Open the glove box and remove all 4 main screws (torx size 20) and the phillips screw on the top right hand edge of the tray underneath the glove box. 4. Remove the 2 torx screws uncovered by removing the side trim, and the bottom-most phillips screw. Slide the glovebox unit forward and carefully unclip the light fixing. 5. Prise off the trim at the lower front of the door frame, this is secured by 2 horizontal clips and one vertical clip, so prise off sideways and then lift out. 6. Moving to the central doos pillar remove the lower trim from the pillar, this is held on by 4 clips. 7. To the back and fold the passenger side rear seat flat, then using a small flat head screwdriver or 2 prise out the round ball half way up the rear fascia panel. 8. Make sure the seat belt is out of the way and relase the clips at the top on the panel first the slowly work dow and pull the bottom out ( this is tricky as it can be trapped by the seat but its pretty strong so you can be relatively firm with it.) 9. Moving back to the centre pillar, there is a single screw at the bottom holding on the sill trim. Remove this and the gently prise the trim away from the sill there are about 6 clips equally spaced and the sill trim is one peice frm front to back and quite flimsy. Wiring. 1. Remove fuse from +ve lead if it has one built in otherwise DO NOT connect to the battery before carrying out this procedure!! 2. Connect the end closest to the fuse holder to the battery. (This is so you know how much of the wire you can pull through. If you couldnt take the fuse, measure the distance from the battery to the gromet and make a mark on the cable about 2 inches longer than the gap and this is how much slack you need to leave.) 3. Working in the passenger footwell at the end. towards the centre of the car there is a gromet.(a rubber like opening to the outside!) This will be filled by a plastic tube, which i believe does absolutely nothing. anyways, take a long, thin screwdriver and poke it through between the plastic and the rubber (i would recommend using a blunt screwdriver or bradle to avoid damaging the rubber seal too badly) 4. Leave the screw driver as far through as you can and go and look under the bonnet, and voila, at the back of the engine compartment you should be able to see the end of said implement. Take the other end of the wire and feed it under the air intake, then push the screwdriver back through, while feeding the wire throught the opening. You only need to feed a few inches into the car then you can go back into the footwell and pull it. Be sure to leave some slack so that it can easily be attached to the battery without being tight. 5. Feed it round underneath all the panels you have removed , and make sure it does not interfere with the passenger seatbelt. 6. Feed it underneath the back part of the rear seat and into the boot. 7. Remove your radio and attach the necessary wires to the back depending on what you are installing (in my case REM and Phono ) 8. Feed them through the back of the radio bay and out the passenger side, be sure to go behind the metal struts or the wires will be trapped and possibly broken by replacing the glove box. 9. Take them on the same route as the +ve power wire. 10. Connect all of these wires to your boot mounted amp. 11. You can now connect the +ve wire to the battery or replace the fuse. 12. At the rear of the boot there is an access hatch for changing the light bulbs in the indicators and break/tail lights, open this and feed the -ve wire through the grate underneath and into the compartment. Attach one end to any of the light cluster securing screws, by removing the nut, placing the wire on the post and replacing the nut. Make sure it is done up nice and tight for a good connection, for an even better connection sand the paint off the bodywork around the post before applying the -ve lead. 13. Carefully attach the -ve lead and test to make sure it all works as it should. If it does than great, follow the preparation steps in reverse order to re-assemble your car interior. If it doesn't work, make sure you have remembered to replace any removed fuses or wires, or that you have wired it up the correct way, that all connections are good and that none of the fuses are blown (blown fuses are usually caused by wiring the amplifyer the wrong way round!) Good Luck!!