The front (cylindrical) bushing will fit but you won't gain anything since it does not influence steering accuracy, it works like a hinge for the lower control arm. Rear (donut) bushing is the one which twists and works like a second spring, you need a strong one for better steering
BTW a fellow with a LCR changed the donut bushings for drilled LC type. They were worn and only the drilled bushing was available on the spot. The steering got softer. Now he wishes his original bushings back
~Nautilus
BTW a fellow with a LCR changed the donut bushings for drilled LC type. They were worn and only the drilled bushing was available on the spot. The steering got softer. Now he wishes his original bushings back
~Nautilus
Now i have been to APS in Brackley, they advised me to go for the Audi TT roadster rear wishbone bush..together with Def Con front bush (however they advised the front LCR bush is still fine) but if replacing~ do so with original or Def con.
Im only on 21000 miles!
The reason to avoid Powerflex is that they can crack easily from weather & dont last long.
Cant find too much on Deff con
Im only on 21000 miles!
The reason to avoid Powerflex is that they can crack easily from weather & dont last long.
Cant find too much on Deff con
APS.....they also advised that i should fit a R32 front arb which i planned to do soon however they said leave the rear arb alone!
My rear beam bushes are fine so no probs there.
My rear beam bushes are fine so no probs there.
Well now there talking pish
Front ARB and bush change is about the best handling mod I have done.
My car was 92,000 miles when it was done though
Front ARB and bush change is about the best handling mod I have done.
My car was 92,000 miles when it was done though
Well R32 front arb toghther with 25 Neuspeed rear arb and the front wishbone OE and rear TT ones. Think thats Ok I know whilst im there i could replace the front to powerflex but im going to look into the Def con a bit more before deciding.
Declan
Guest
Just to throw in my tuppence worth I've fitted TT bushings to my MKIV GTI wishbones and they make a hell of a difference
Advice for people who change the LCA bushings from drilled to heavy-duty TT type:
1. None of them withstands more than 30 000 - 40 000 kms of hard road use. If you drive like a granny, they will, but not if the LC/LFR/LCR is driven as it should.
2. They break on the weakest spot in their surface, the place where they flex, halfway between edge and middle bolt.
3. Original drilled bushings broke starting from the edge of the hole and they held in 5-10 mm of rubber at their best. TT bushings broke where the hole should have been and the crack went on, until they also held in maybe 10 mm of rubber.
4. To be safe, change them each third oil change.
5. Companies who make them in good quality and cheap prices: Meyle, Lemförder, Febi, Boge. Audi OEM bushings are Boge. Febi is the cheapest. Hardness (any of them is much harder than OEM drilled) is like that, from softest to hardest: Febi -> Meyle -> Lemförder -> Boge. Differences in hardness are small.
~Nautilus
1. None of them withstands more than 30 000 - 40 000 kms of hard road use. If you drive like a granny, they will, but not if the LC/LFR/LCR is driven as it should.
2. They break on the weakest spot in their surface, the place where they flex, halfway between edge and middle bolt.
3. Original drilled bushings broke starting from the edge of the hole and they held in 5-10 mm of rubber at their best. TT bushings broke where the hole should have been and the crack went on, until they also held in maybe 10 mm of rubber.
4. To be safe, change them each third oil change.
5. Companies who make them in good quality and cheap prices: Meyle, Lemförder, Febi, Boge. Audi OEM bushings are Boge. Febi is the cheapest. Hardness (any of them is much harder than OEM drilled) is like that, from softest to hardest: Febi -> Meyle -> Lemförder -> Boge. Differences in hardness are small.
~Nautilus
I know a little on and off topic - but yesterday I changed the front wishbone rear bushes on my Gf mini one. I bought the Powerflex ones and it took about 3/4 hours to fit as you have to drop the whole subframe (ARB also bolted to subframe) to get to the bushes and take the wishbones off the cv joint and tracking rod end. Very hard to do - luckily we had a ramp and a press. However on topic the car feels amazing with the Powerflex bushes in! Steering and handles superbly better then it did.
Now I am looking at upgrading mine to the Powerflex ones on my LCR
Now I am looking at upgrading mine to the Powerflex ones on my LCR
People claim the polyurethane is not suitable for "doughnut" shaped bushings (rear LCA bushings in a Leon) because they have to flex like a second spring, and poly does not flex. So they will grind, twist, push, and after attracting enough dirt and grit to grind and enlarge the hole around them, they will pop out of the hole in the LCA.
"Hinge" shaped bushings (in a Leon: front ARB, front end of the LCA) can be made of poly because they only do rotate, not flex.
~Nautilus
"Hinge" shaped bushings (in a Leon: front ARB, front end of the LCA) can be made of poly because they only do rotate, not flex.
~Nautilus
Also, once harder bushings are fitted, the subframe will betray its flimsy construction on potholes and bumps (the road shocks are more easily transmitted into the strut and then in the bodywork).
Subframe stiffening (Audi S3 bar or Wiechers / Neuspeed bar in front, 2 Audi TT bars in the rear) results in a better ride quality, for it gives a stronger support to the lower control arm + strut assembly, and the road shocks move only the strut as they should, they do no longer fully transmit into the bodywork.
The ideal stiffening is to get both front and rear bars, to change the subframe shape from a flimsy "X" into a trapeze.
~Nautilus
Subframe stiffening (Audi S3 bar or Wiechers / Neuspeed bar in front, 2 Audi TT bars in the rear) results in a better ride quality, for it gives a stronger support to the lower control arm + strut assembly, and the road shocks move only the strut as they should, they do no longer fully transmit into the bodywork.
The ideal stiffening is to get both front and rear bars, to change the subframe shape from a flimsy "X" into a trapeze.
~Nautilus
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